Beechgrove Garden : Our next programme is on Friday 27th of August on BBC 1 at 7.30pm
BBC Scotland
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Q: Can I make leaf mould from ivy leaves and hedge cuttings or are they too tough and perhaps poisonous?
(from J. Edgar)
A: Leaf mould is made from the fallen leaves of deciduous trees in autumn. A few withered ivy leaves included in the mix would be all right, but fresh ivy leaves should be put in the compost heap. Beware of ivy cuttings as they will most likely grow. The best way to treat these tough leaves and stems is to shred them before adding them to the compost heap.
Q: Please can you give some advice on whether or not to reuse growbags once the tomatoes are over and also what to do with the compost from growing potatoes in bags.
(from A. Cummings)
A: Spent growbag compost and that used in potato bags can be spread on the garden and raked into the soil. It can also be used as a mulch around shrubs or trees. In deep containers used for small bulbs or winter pansies, it can be put in the bottom half of the pot. Fresh compost on the top half will be enough for these plants.
Q: You have very kindly helped us in the past and pointed us in the right direction with other problems we have had - this time it's tomatoes! I have attached some photos of the leaves to see what your thoughts might be - we're thinking perhaps a deficiency of some kind as there are no signs of bugs. The underside of the leaves are clear - no fungus or bugs, but one leaf did have a shiny residue underneath left by something! My husband had already taken off some of the affected leaves.
My husband's not that happy with the growbags this year as they are very thin, although we are using the green tubs inserted into the bags like ones you have at Beechgrove. The greenhouse is well ventilated and the plants are watered regularly.
(from M. Young)
A: This looks like magnesium deficiency. Usually associated with light, sandy soils, magnesium deficiency can result from over use of high potassium fertiliser where the plant absorbs the potassium at the expence of magnesium.
Try spraying the foliage with Epsom Salts solution at a rate of 54g per 4.5 litres of water at two week intervals.
The silvery deposit could have been left by a slug, so keep a look out for those monsters.
Q: I watched the programme the other night and was very interested in the information about making compost. I have a compost bin (the type that you can buy from the council - green plastic with a lid) which I add all vegetable/gardening waste into. Each time I open it up now I am surrounded by a cloud of horrible flies. Is there anything I am doing wrong to encourage these flies? Or is there anything I can add to the compost to kill them off? They really put me off even opening the bin!
(from M. Ritchie)
A: They are fruit flies, attracted by the smell of rotting vegetable matter. You can reduce their numbers by forking over the compost on a regular basis. It also helps if you spread a layer of 'brown' material - shredded paper, newspaper, mature compost or earth - to cover fresh fruit and vegetable matter when you put it in the bin.
Don't be tempted to use fly spray.
Once the bin is full, tip the whole lot out on to the ground, give it a thorough mix with a fork and then put it all back in the bin. This aerates the compost and mixes the ingredients and takes care of the flies.
Don't let a swarm of flies put you off composting.
Q: My privet has brown curled up ends - its as if there is a bubble on the leaves and inside there is like tiny black balls and small white larvae creatures in it too.
Is this serious? My tatties are planted beside this too and the leaves are a funny shape and texture with small holes in them.
Please can you help me, I'm a bit worried about it.
A: Lilac leaf miner has taken up residence in your privet hedge. From June onwards, brown, blistered areas appear on the leaves of lilac and privet. Each blister contains one or more small, legless grub. They can be white or pale green. In early summer, the adult moths emerge from the cocoons and females lay batches of eggs on the undersides of leaves. A week later, the eggs hatch, burrow into the leaves, feed and create the blister mines. Towards the end of their feeding time, they emerge from the mines, roll up the tips of leaves, tie up the rolls with silken thread and continue to feed in this protedted environment. This generation will pupate in cocoons in the crevices of leaf axils or branches. In summer a second generation of moths will emerge and the whole cycle begins again. During winter, caterpillars from this second generation will pupate in cocoons at the base of lilac trees, hedges or other suitable shelters.
By picking off and destroying as many as possible of the affected leaves, you will reduce the miner population. If you feel it is necessary, a contact insecticide could be used in May/June when the first mines appear. Keep a look out for the second generation infestation if there is one and be on your guard next year.
Q: I have a honeysuckle which I brought from my last house 11 years ago. Although it grows profusely, as the flower buds form there is what looks like ash in the leaves below the plant. This year most of the buds had to be taken off as this was widespread over the plant.
As I have done before, I have cut it back to the root and I am sure it will grow again but how do I get rid of the "ash" that prevents the plant from flowering. I should also say that the buds do not form in a group but rather they cross over each other and the flowers are poor.
Please help!!! I love honeysuckle and have just bought another two plants and I don't want the same thing to happen again. I have a yellow/white small flowering honeysuckle and it doesn't happen to it - only the pink/red one.
(from J. Bell)
A: This is almost certainly mildew. The soil at the base of a wall is often dry. Honeysuckle is a woodland plant that doesn't take kindly to having dry roots.
To begin with, I'd give the plant a good soaking and then apply (keeping clear of the stem) a thick organic mulch to cover the root area. This will help to keep the moisture in. Do a bit of pruning to reduce congestion and improve air circulation. Fungicide spray will not cure the mildew, but it may help to check the spread on to any new growth.
Collect and destroy fallen leaves. Mildew spores can over winter and re-infest the plant next year.
Next spring, as soon as new growth appears, begin a fungicide spray programme. Think prevention rather than cure.
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